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Torsion Spring Replacement

The Shaft Above the Opening

If there is a steel bar running horizontally across the wall above your garage door with one or two springs threaded onto it, you have a torsion system. The springs are anchored at a centre bracket and wound onto the shaft. At each end of that shaft sits a grooved cable drum.

Turning the shaft is what lifts the door. The springs are wound tight when the door is down, and as they unwind they turn the shaft, the drums take up the lift cables, and several hundred pounds of door goes up as though it weighed forty.

That is the whole mechanism. It is elegant and it is under a great deal of stored energy at all times.

Sizing Is Not Guesswork

A torsion spring is specified by four numbers. Wire diameter, inside diameter, length, and wind direction. Get any of them wrong and the door either will not lift or it slams itself shut.

We weigh or calculate the door before ordering rather than matching whatever was on there. Doors get modified. Somebody adds insulation panels, replaces a wood section, or fits a heavier bottom rail, and the original spring is now undersized for the door it is carrying. A spring that has been fighting an extra thirty pounds for six years did not fail early by bad luck.

What we check before the spring goes on:

Winding Is the Whole Job

The spring is wound onto the shaft a set number of quarter turns, calculated from the door height. A seven foot door is typically around thirty quarter turns, an eight foot door more. The winding is done with two properly sized steel bars, hand over hand, with the shaft held.

Then the set screws go down onto the shaft, and only then do the bars come out.

This is the part that goes badly wrong for people using a screwdriver or an undersized bar. There is no partial failure mode here. Either the bar is seated and holding, or it is not.

Why Both, Even on a Two Spring Door

On a double door running two springs, both come off. They were wound together, they have unwound and rewound together, and their fatigue is identical. Fitting one new spring beside one tired spring gives you a door that pulls harder on one side, which loads the drums unevenly and puts a twist through the section every single cycle.

There is also the plain economics of it. The labour is nearly all in getting the tension off and back on again. Doing the second spring in the same visit costs the price of the spring, not the price of another call out.

Cycle Life and What to Buy

A standard torsion spring is built for ten thousand cycles. One cycle is up and down once. High cycle springs, made from heavier wire on a larger inside diameter, are rated at twenty five thousand.

For a household using four cycles a day, standard springs get you around seven years and high cycle gets you around seventeen. If your garage is the door everybody actually uses, and it runs eight or ten times a day, the upgrade pays. If the door opens twice a day, it does not, and we will say so.

Salt Air Shortens All of It

Huntington Beach is close enough to the water that spring life here runs shorter than the ratings imply. Corrosion sets in between the coils, and a corroded spring binds slightly on itself instead of unwinding cleanly, which fatigues it faster than the cycle count alone would.

Coated or galvanized springs are worth the small premium within a mile or two of the sand. Further inland it matters less.

The Visit

  1. Clamp the door and disconnect the opener.
  2. Unwind the old springs with bars, controlled, one quarter turn at a time.
  3. Off with the springs, and inspect bearings, shaft, drums and cables.
  4. Fit the new matched set with the correct wind direction each side.
  5. Wind to the calculated turns and set the cones down properly.
  6. Lift by hand to the halfway point and let go. A balanced door stays put.
  7. Reconnect the opener and run both UL 325 reversal tests.

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